Knitted fabric and method of making it



p 1 4 I E. M. zEscH 2,257,443

KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING IT Filed May 6, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet l I F/g/ I aim/(mmmmmm yam 1% J BY fuy'/I M Z 2 3"??? I ATTORNEYS,

p 0 1941- E. M. 'zEscH 2,257,443

KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING IT" Filed May 6, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR.

fuyene. M. Zeacf;

' ATTORNEY.

Pate'nted Sept. 30, 1941 Eugene M. Zesch, Beading, Pa., assignor to Karl Lieberknecht, Inc., a corporation of Pennsylvania Application May s, 1940, Serial No. 333,544

16 Claims.

My invention relates to knitted fabrics and to 'methods of making them, and particularly to fabrics and methods whereby the loops in the first courses, as in the welts of stockings or full fashioned stocking blanks, are prevented from unravelling at the selvedges where the yarn is cut.

In knitting a fabric of the above-indicated character, loops of the first course are main tained under tension between the needles of a knitting mechanism and the hooks of a take-off device or welt bar of the machine, and so maintained until the welt is turned and these loops topped onto the loops at the welt line. Such loops, at the beginning of the first course .or selvedge where the yarn is cut, frequently give trouble by unravelling, which opens up the course during subsequent handling, such as topping, looping and seaming.

Particularly where the take off is effected in a manner reducing the interloop friction, as by engagement of the welt hooks only with every other sinker and divider loop, this unravelling is likely to occur, because of the reduced friction or locking action between the loops of the first and second courses resulting from the reduced number and increased course-wise widths of the loops of the first course.

Also, the unravelling of the loops of the first course is effected more or less'according to the shapes an sizes of the loops, the relation of the loops to each other, and the character of the yarn as to diameter, number of threads, texture. such as surface smoothness, and other factors, so that the tendency of the first course tounravel maybe greater or less according to any one or combination of the above-mentioned causes.

To ensure against unravelling of the loops of the first course of a fabric of any number of yarns of the nature stated, particularly in running very smooth yarns as of artificial silk or other synthetic yarn which, because of the slick surfaces, are more easily unravelled than silk or cotton yarns having relatively rough surfaces, it is accordingly, among the objects of this invention to lock each such course at its beginning,-as by intertwining a short length or preliminary extension of the yarn with a corresponding length of the course, and knitting this increased-strand section of the course to the second course, or by equivalently locking the yarn to, or burying it in, the fabric.

Another object of the invention is specifically to efiect such locking in an instance where the fabric is so formed for taking from theneedle's that the ordinary friction or locking tendency between the loops of the first and second courses is reduced or altered.

Another object of the invention is to produce a knitted fabric of the above-indicated character, as in a stocking, particularly in a full fashioned stocking blank, that shall be simple and durable in construction, economical to manufacture, and effective in service.

A further object of the invention is to provide a method that shall expedite the attainment of the above-mentioned results without substantial change in the general duties of an operator, or in the construction and operation of the machine, except to facilitate such duties and operation in the production of a'better fabric, and

. to .avoid trouble, expense and loss oftime and material.

With such objects in view, as well as other advantages which may be incident to a utilization of the improvements, the invention comprises the elements and combinations thereof hereinafter set forth and claimed, with the understanding that the several necessary elements constituting the same may be varied in proportion, arrangement and texture, without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as intended, and as set forth in the drawings, specification and claims.

In practicing the invention in a full fashioned stocking blank, and during its production on a machine for this purpose, in each of the examples of single yarn welts given, at the end of the next'previous set, the machine is stopped, with the couliering on the left side, as viewed from the front, and all friction boxes disengaged from The welt yarn carrier rod, which may be standing on either the right or left side, is positioned manually against, and to the right of, an intermediate stop, this operation positioning the carrier a distance, such as a half inch, to the left of the right side of the sinker head. The welt carrier rod is then locked to its friction box, the machine started and, as the couliering takes place from left to right, the weltyarn is kinked around the needles for the above-mentioned distance at the right side selvedge.

With the intermediate stop lifted, the first true welt course is then started, laid and formed into loops, with a half inch of the loops at the right side selvedge coincident, or in'register, with the kinks o'r'loops of the above-mentioned distance or extension, thus rendering the latter apart of positioning with each other.

strand thickness or of greater thickness through this half inch than the remainder of the course. When interknitted simultaneously with the yarn of the first course to theyarn of the second course, the half inch extension or length becomes intertwinedwith the yarns of both courses,

.tioned intermediate stop. thereby permitting the rod to pass underneath this stop. The operator then immediately-reverses the motion of the welt carrier. rod and brings it across this stop, which is forced to the low position by the sprin and an auxiliary control lever to be hereinafter set forth. Knitting is continued to welt line loops, onto certain of which, after turning the welt, loops of the above-mentioned first course and the extension are topped, thus further locking the course. In order to render the invention more clearly understood, means are shown in the accompanying drawings for carrying the same into practical effect, without limiting the improvements in the useful applications thereof to the particular constructions and steps which, for the Purpose of explanation, are made the subject of illustration.

- In the drawings:

Figure 1 is a loop diagram'of aportion of the welt fabric of a. full fashioned. stocking lblank constructed in accordance with the invention, and having its first course adapted for topping onto alternate needles at the welt line;

Fig. 2 is a diagram, similar to Fig. 1, of a corresponding knitted welt portion having loops of a first course for toppin onto all the needles corresponding to the width of the portion at the weltline; Y

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic perspective view of parts of a full fashioned knitting machine on which the fabric of the invention may be produced by the novel method and 1 Fig. 4 is a diagram in perspective, illustrating certain elements at a Stage of the action of to] ping a first course of the fabric onto the needles at the welt line.

Referring to Fig. 1, the fabric or welt, in this instance. is constructed from a single yarn having a starting end I disposed a distance A from the right end of -a first course 8 of loops, as viewed in,the drawings. The distance A may be any selected extent. such as the above-mentioned half inch.

. From the end I. the yarn forms loops B to the right end or the course I, at which it turns, through a bight I, and forms loops C extending along the loops 3 and'beyond the latter .to the left end of the course 8. Thus. although disposed at the beginning of the'flrstcourseO, the yarnof' the loops B and C have frictional locking inter- Frcm the left end of theflrst course I. the

- at which it turns through a bight 9a, and forms loops Ca extending along the loops Ba and beremainder of its length. In this relation. alone,

yarn continues through loops D of a second course II that is inter-knitted with the loops 8 and C to add to the frictional holding 1 king effect tending to prevent unravelling of the v first course.

Knitting is continued, through a body I! of the fabric, to form loops along a'welt line, to be hereinafter further pointed out, onto alternate loops of which the loops B and C are topped. and knitted to the leg body of the stocking fabric.

In forming the first full or complete course I, according tothe fabric being knitted. the yarn is originally formed into loops about all the knitting machine needles corresponding to such length, but has only the alternate of its sinker and divider loops in the length-taken oil by the welt hooks, so that the intermediate needle loops 'are dropped, and the course formed with only 7 half the number of needle loops to facilitate the above-mentioned topping. This construction in course, and rendered unravelling of loops corresponding to the loops 0 more likely to occur.

In the form of the invention shownin Fig. 2, 1 in which corresponding elements are designated by corresponding reference characters each having the sunix a, the fabric is also constructed from a single yam having a starting end la disposed a distance Aa from the right end of a first 1 course to of loops. From the end la, the yarn forms loops Ba to the right end of the course la,

yond the latter to the' left end of the course to. From the left end of the course to, the yarn continues through loops Da of a second coursellla that is interknitted with the loops Ba and Ca, and further extends through a body lid of the fabric to form loops along a welt line, as above set forth.

Injthis form, the yarn of the first and subsequent courses is formed about successive needles, and taken oil by a welt bar having a hook for each sinker and divider loop; the invention in" this case also preventing the unravelling of the first course loops, as above set forth.

o Referring to Fig. 3, a knitting machine set up for producing the fabrics of Figs. 1 and 2, includes a needle bank ll, which may be the bank of a single section machine, but which is one of several banks'of a multi-section machine. as indicated.

A yarn carrier or finger II is mounted on a carrier rod IO operating between left'and right end stops II and II, respectively, and carrying a dog II for releasable locking 2| on a friction box 22.

The box 22, mounted on a friction rod 2 carries a shaft 26 by which the lever M is pivotally mounted, and has portions 21 for bracing the the rod it through the dog Ill.

A bevelled dog as, fixed to the carrier rod it, 5

supports an adjustable contact element in. the form of a screw II for engagement, under; certain conditions, with a spring plunger stop 32 mounted in a stationary nember 38. A spring It normally biases the plunger stop 32 upwardly, out,

that, in its low position, the stop I: may be raised by the bevel of the dog 20 'even' though cooperation with a lever lever 3!. against side thrust incident to elements 40 for latter is pivotally mounted on a pin 31, and has a cam follower portion II for cooperation with a cam 3! having a. high spot 42 and mounted on a pattern control shaft 48 which is auxiliaryto, and controlled by, a usual main pattern chain (not shown). a

In Fig. 4, are indicated the needle bank I, the completed fabric body it, in the form of a partially turned welt, a take-oi! rod 48, and flexible connection to a usual take-off reel.

In operation, as heretofore. suggested, at-the end of the previous set or complete knitting cycle, the machine is stopped, in this instance with the couliering at the left side, and the friction is held in in low position by the lever a. The

boxes, including the box 22, disconnected from the friction rod 25. v

The welt carrier'rod ",which may be standing at either the right or left side of the knittin field, in contact with either the stop I! or the stop I1, respectively, is positioned manually, in this instance, with the contact screw 3| against the intermediate plunger stop 82, which positions ,the red I, by the distance A, to the left of the right end of its stroke. a

When the carrier rod I and the carrierfinger II are in this position, as illustrated in Fig. 3, the friction box 22 is locked to the friction rod II, the machine is started, and the welt yarn is laid from left to right, and kinked around the needles in the distance A at the right side selve'dge. I

The first true or full course is then laid by bending the yarn through the bight 8, as shown in Fig. 1, and moving the carrier rod l6 from right to left against the end stop 11, during and following which action, the loops B and C are "formed, and subsequently interknitted to the loops D of the second course ill.

Knitting is continued to complete the welt body II and form loops therein at a welt line 50, as indicated in Fig. 4, at which stage, the loops B and C are topped onto the needles I, with the welt line loops, and knitting extended in a usual manner.

If, at the end of the previous set, the welt carrier rod II is standing at the left end of its stroke against the end stop IT, it is manually pushed to the right end, the bevelled dog 2! lifting the plunger stop 32, thereby permitting the dog to a pass this stop and to be returned -to position first course turned inwardly and locked in' position'therealong.

.2. A knitted fabric comprising an extension of the yarnv of the first course at the beginning thereof turned inwardly therealong and having ,ioops knitted with loops thereof to loops of the second course. I 3. A knitted fabric comprising an extension of the, yarn thereof at the beginning of the first -course turned, inwardly thereaiong and having loops knitted with loops thereof toloops of the second course, next adjacent needle loops of said first course' and extension being in alternate needle wales of the fabric. I

4. A knitted fabric comprising first and'sec- 0nd coursescf jdiiferent numbers-of loops, re-- spectively, and an, extension of the yarn of the fabric at the beginning of the first course turned inwardly therealong and having loops knitted with loops thereof -to loops of the second course.

5. A fiat knitted fabric comprising a first course yarn including a full length section and short length section lying along the full length section at the beginning thereof, next adjacent loops'of saidyarn being disposed in alternate needle wales of the fabric.

6. The method of making a knitted fabric, which comprises laying to a needle bank of a knitting machine an extension of the am of the first'course at the beginning thereof opposite to the direction of laying the yarn of the course from a point inwardly along the bank to the first needle by movingthe yarn carrier against an intermediate stop, moving the carrier to the beginning of the first course, raising the stop, re-

, versingthe movement of the carrier to lay the ":of opposite to the direction of laying the yarn yarn of thefirst course, forming. the. yarn of the extension and-first course into loops, inserting the hooks of a welt bar into certain of said, loops,

laying and forming into loops the yarns of the second course, interknitting' loops of the second course with loops of the first course and-its said extension, continuing knitting to the loops at the welt line, turning the welt, and topping said first course and said extension onto certain of said welt line loops. l

'7. The method of ,making a knitted fabric, which comprises layingto a needle bank of a knitting machine an extension of the yarn of the first course at the beginning thereof opposite to the direction of laying the yarn of the course-from-a point inwardly along the bank 9 to' the first needle by moving the yarn carrier free'from the friction rod against an intermediate stop, looking the carrier through its friction box to said rod, actuating the rod to move the box to the beginning of the first course, raising the stop, reversing the movement of the rod to lay the yarn of the first course, forming the yarn of the extension and first course into the loops of the welt line, turning the welt, and topping said first course and said extension onto certain of said welt line loops.

8, The method of making a knitted fabric having aweit, which comprises laying to a needle bank of a knitting machine an extension of ,the yarn of the first course at the beginning thereof the course from a point inwardly along the bank to the first needle by moving the yarn carrier free from the friction rod'against an intermediate stop, locking the carrier through its friction box to said rod, actuating the rod to move the box'to the beginning of the first course,

raising the stop, reversing the movement of the rod to lay the yarn of the first course, forming the yarn of the extension and first course into loops, inserting next successive hooks of a welt bar into alternate sinker and divider loops of the first course including said extension, laying and forming into loops the yarn of the'second course, interknitting loops of the second course with loops of the first course and its saidextension, continuing knitting to the loops at the welt .line, turning the welt, and topping said first course and said extension onto certain of said welt line loops.

9. The method of making a' flat knitted fabric, which comprises the production of a single full length course including the operations of return laying the yarn of the course on itself for a distance less than said full length and. continuing the laying of the yarn to complete the course at the beginning thereof turned inwardlyand locked in position therealong, next adjacent needle loops of said first course and extension being in alternate needle wales of the welt.

12. The method of making a fiat knitted fabric, which comprises laying a short length of the yarn of the first course from a position inwardly along the course to position at the beginning theref, laying a full length of said yarn from .the latter position, and knitting said lengths to the yarn of the second course.

13. The method of making a fiat knitted fabric, which comprises laying a short length strand of the first course from a position inwardly along the course to position at the beginning of the course, oppositely laying a full length; strand,

and knitting said short and full length strands to the yarn of the second course with next adjacent needle loops in alternate needle wales of the fabric. 1

14. The method of making a knitted fabric welt from a position inwardly along the course to a position at the beginning of the course, lay- I ing a full length strand of said yarn, knitting said lengths to the yarn of the second course. continuing knitting to the loops at a welt line,

' turning the welt, and -toppirm said first course including said extension onto certain of said welt line loops.

15. The method of making 'a full fashioned stocking blank welt, which comprises laying yarn to a needle bank of a full fashion knitting machine including the laying of a short length of the yarn' of the first course from a position inwardly along the .bank to the first needle and a full course length of the yarn of said course along the bank from the-first needie, forming-said lengths into loops, inserting the hooks of a welt bar into certain of said loops, laying'and forming into loops the yarn of the second course, inter-knitting loops of the second course with loops of said lengths, continuing knitting to the loops at a welt line, turning the welt. and topping said first course including said len ths onto certain of said welt I line loops.

16. The method of 'making a knitted fabric having a welt, which comprises laying to a needle bank of a knitting machine an extension of the yarn of the first course from a position inwardly therealong to a position at the beginning thereof, laying a full length ofsaid yarn from the latter position, forming the extension and the full length into loops, inserting the hooks of a welt bar into certain of said loops, I

laying and forming into loops the yarn of the second course, interknitting loops of the second course with loops of the first course and said extension, continuing knitting to the loops at the welt line, turning the welt, and topping said first course and said extension onto certain of said having a welt, which comprises laying a short 40 welt line loops. length' of the yarn of the first course of the M. ZESCH. 

